With the continued success of the famous ‘Seven Stars in Kyushu’ cruise train, the opening of the Nishi Kyushu Shinkansen, and the reopening of Japan’s welcoming omotenashi-focussed tourism sector after years of closed borders due to Covid, the western Japanese island of Kyushu is rolling out a plethora of new initiatives to welcome visitors.
One of the latest is the brand new Two Stars 4047 tourist train, which hugs this subtropical prefecture’s beautiful western coastline along the slower, conventional lines that were previously used as the main line to Nagasaki, which the new bullet train line has superseded.
The three-car diesel train — converted from a vintage diesel KiHa 40 single railcar and an equally vintage KiHa 47 two-car diesel multiple unit, hence the “4047” in the name — gleams in its white and gold livery as it chugs smartly up to the station at Takeo-Onsen.
Two Stars 4047 is converted from three older coaches of around forty years’ vintage — some of which are still serving local services on these very lines. Image: John Walton
This station, itself newly redeveloped to serve as the present interim eastern terminus of the Nishi-Kyushu Shinkansen, serves as both the start and finish of the day-long loop that this Joyful Train makes four times a week, operating long Friday-to-Monday weekends plus holidays.
On board, the Two Stars is a feast for the eyes. Created by JR Kyushu’s longtime design partner Mitooka Eiji, the interior of this train belies its simple white-with-gold exterior, offering an explosion of colours and textures in the central lounge and bar car that harkens back to local artisanal crafts quiet literally from floor to ceiling. It features a variety of locally produced hot and cold drinks, snacks — and a special commemorative bento lunchbox, which must be booked in advance.
Japanase maximalism is the order of the day in the bar and lounge car! Image: John Walton
The two main passenger cars, one on each end of the train, are less maximalist and more classically Japanese, with a lot of polished wood, traditional tatami reed sun screens, and calming natural fabrics on the seats.
At every set of standard seats (which can swivel in their pair to face the seats behind) there is a charming art print. Image: John Walton
Passengers have a choice to book either window-facing sofa seating (in front of floor-to-ceiling vertical wraparound panoramic windows) or more standard seats, laid out in a 2-2 configuration and able to swivel so a group of four passengers can enjoy their time onboard facing each other.
The two-seater sofas are perfect for couples or good friends travelling together to admire the scenery. Image: John Walton
Leaving Takeo-Onsen at 1022, the train stops five times during the morning before arriving at Nagasaki at 1315 — just in time for lunch at one of the many signature local eateries in its newly redeveloped main train station. Regional specialties, including during our December trip a bag of utterly delicious local mikan tangerines, bursting with flavour and juice, were on sale from a kiosk at the first stop, Kohoku.
Delicious local specialties sold on the platform are part of the joy on a Joyful Train. Image: John Walton
The station at stop number two, Hizen-hama, rather famously features a sake bar inside its main station building, and the staff from this bar set up on the platform a choice of six sakes to take back onto the train (along with some delicious local cheese) and sip as the Two Stars wends its way around the sheltered coast of the Ariake Sea along the old Nagasaki Main Line.
It’s never too early for a few glasses of takeaway sake served on a train station platform alongside a small pot of cheese… Image: John Walton
Another longer stop at Konagai’s scenic seaside platform allows for photoshoots, with many of the Japanese grandmothers and grandfathers in their traditional yukata and kimono outfits taking the opportunity for commemorative photographs in the bright winter sunshine — winter for Nagasaki, that is, in the high teens Celsius (low seventies Fahrenheit).
Fellow travellers in traditional outfits made for a very joyful train ride indeed. Image: John Walton
The convivial atmosphere on board as these traditionally dressed older travellers chatted away, sharing drinks and snacks before tucking into their bento lunches with impressive relish, was a real joy to share.
Among the souvenirs on board the train are the complimentary commemorative postcard-sized prints, whose back is perfectly sized for inking the Two Stars 4047 hanko stamp to remember the trip.
For those more digitally inclined, free and fast wifi Internet worked impressively well.
JR Kyushu is in the process of revamping many of its Joyful Train tourist trips, partly owing to as-yet-unrepaired track damage from storms in 2020 along lines where several of them previously operated.
Some are running across other lines in the meantime, making Kyushu a real destination for travellers for whom this kind of relaxed, charming and nostalgic carefully designed experience is a draw.
The beautiful clear waters off Nagasaki are a delight to discover. Image: John Walton
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Featured image credited to John Walton
