France’s TGV is often lauded as the best high-speed rail service in the world. A trailblazer in the 1970s, the French network now crisscrosses France and beyond, offering fast and convenient connections.
Indeed, the network is so popular that many trains are now built as double-deckers and boast as many as 20 carriages.
But with increased competition from other European players, does TGV still set the pace?
On a recent trip on the original route from Paris to Lyon, I discovered that TGV InOui, the premium brand operated by SNCF, has nearly perfected the art of first class, high-speed train travel.
Arriving at the Paris Gare de Lyon station via underground commuter rail, I noticed there is very little signage about where to go to catch the TGV InOui train. The station is organized into halls which are essentially different groups of platforms in separate buildings joined by long corridors.
I picked Hall 1 as my starting point, and then managed to deduce that my train actually left from Hall 2, requiring me to walk across the complex to find my platform. Regular passengers will know which train leaves from where, but it was not clear to a new traveler.
I arrived in Hall 2 and learned that my train was ready for boarding. First class passengers are offered ‘express’ processing, but there was no queue anyway. Passing through the gate, I was greeted by a resplendent looking (if slightly bespeckled) train in the autumn sunshine.Featuring two TGV Duplex sets, this bi-level train was designed to cope with increased demand on French high-speed lines. Featuring 18 coaches, it can carry up to 510 passengers per set in a two-class configuration at speeds of up to 199 MPH (320 KPH).
Although these sets date back to the 1990s, they still looked very modern in SNCF’s InOui livery. I boarded the train and quickly found my seat in the upper saloon.
The interior felt very smart indeed. Arranged in a 2-1 configuration, it features a conservative blue, red and white palette with very high quality finishes and wood-effect veneer. It felt like a high-end office reception area, and was supremely comfortable.
As I waited for departure, I made myself comfortable in my solo seat. The seat itself felt incredibly wide and spacious. Both armrests are movable, allowing for even more space.
The seat has an electric recline but static seatback, meaning I could relax without disturbing the passenger behind me. Legroom was abundant, but the compressed size of the upper deck meant that I could not fit my bag in the overhead luggage rack. Instead, it had go under the seat in front of me. There’s also an adjustable footrest.
The real star of the show, however, was the table. It was the largest table I had ever seen on a train (or a plane outside of first class). Although it was not adjustable, it had space for my laptop, iPad, a drink and a snack. I could comfortably double-screen at the same time. A small pop-out shelf could facilitate drinks or a PED when I didn’t need the full table.
Coupled with a literature pocket and two EU power sockets (plus two USB-A ports), it was the best example of a mobile workstation I’ve ever seen in rail or in the air.
As we snaked out of Paris, I inspected the rest of the train. Somewhat surprisingly to me, key train compartments including bathrooms and the cafe bar, are on the upper level. (I did not see how the train carries passengers with accessibility requirements).
The toilet was clean, if quite small, whilst the bar car was very swish indeed, featuring stools facing the windows. There was only one person running it though, so there was a long queue.
I availed myself of some wine and snacks. TGV ran out of white wine, so I had the rosé. It was fine and chilled, but only served from a paper cup. I took this beverage back to my seat and enjoyed watching YouTube via the complimentary onboard Wi-Fi.
It’s worth noting here that SNCF does offer a proper meal service in its (rather mysterious) Grand Voyageur class, which is a sort of first class “plus” for professional business travelers.
As we sped towards Lyon, I began to notice one drawback: the heat. The strong sunshine was beating down onto the train, and the air conditioning was fighting a losing battle to keep us cool.
Nevertheless, as we glided into the Lyon-Part-Dieu station, I couldn’t help but conclude that this was the best high-speed rail experience of my life.
Whilst TGV does not offer a meal service in first class, the sheer quality of the cabin and its focus on creating a luxurious professional environment made it the best overall product on the rails, at least as far as I’m concerned.
Unlike TGV’s older sets, the Duplex is a class leader and demonstrates the power of getting the hard product perfect to gloss over shortcomings elsewhere.
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All images credited to the author, Fintan Horan-Stear